Saturday, September 06, 2003

Leaving Yosemite
We're aiming North, to Lake Tahoe today. It wasn't on our plan originally, but people had said how beautiful it is, so we thought we'd make the 200 mile detour. The drive brought us down from 4,000 feet altitude, to 1,000 feet - where the air was hot and dry, and the meadows were yellow. We drove through towns with real American names, like Jacksonvile, Sonora and Angels Camp. We passed lots of historical markers, marking spots where Mark Twain lived, wrote, or stopped for coffee. We even passed Mark Twain's cabin near Angels Camp (we took the 1 mile detour, and found a chimney, a wall and a sign saying that the Angels Camp Lions Club are currently rebuilding it "in the image of the original", and that it would be finished by Fall 2002. (Yup, you guessed, not worth the detour!)

The picture sums up the drive - typically American, with red roof barns, lots of school buses, and lots of old charm in the form of cafe's, antique shops and water-pumping windmills.

We then turned East, and started climbing towards Lake Tahoe on Highway 88. Having driven down from 9,000 feet three days ago, to 1,000 feet, we found ourselves going all the way back up again to 9,300 feet for the drive to Tahoe - the lake is at 7,000 feet, but to get there we drove along the ridge line of a mountain. The air was cool - a relief after the dry heat on the drive to the hills, and clear, so we could see for miles. We finally drove down to the town of South Tahoe at 6pm, and then spent an hour finding a reasonably priced motel (at the weekends, prices shoot upwards - especially in Tahoe). Lake Tahoe spans California and Nevada, so people head here for the weekends for the nature, the winter skiing, and (most importantly for many) the casinos.


Weird things caused by states
Tahoe is a good example of a 'weird thing', created by the presence of State lines. It sits on the border between Nevada and California. Driving here last night it was easy to work out where the State line was, even though there were only small signs on the road. On the California side was a long road, lined with motels, hotels and fast food restaurants - and all of the other urban detritus that goes with that - like laundromats, wedding chapels and liquor stores. And it was all low-rise - nothing higher than two floors. And there, on the state line - literally one foot over it - were huge tower blocks of casinos. And nothing else - we drove for a mile into Nevada, and once you were past the casinos, there was nothing else but blackness.

My picture doesn't really capture it, but I tried. Its amazing - it's just like somebody turned the lights out! So Californians drive up here from Sacramento and San Francisco to spend the weekend in motels on the California side of the line, and then shuttle bus or walk over to the casinos in Nevada, to spend their real money. I met a guy at breakfast who'd arrived at 10pm, and had lost $3,000 in the casino by 2am - and this isn't a guy with money, otherwise he wouldn't be staying in a $50 a night motel! But he wasn't worried - he's going back tonight to win it all back!

Sunday, September 07, 2003
A very special day
Well, it’s arrived – our 12th wedding anniversary – and just like our 2nd wedding anniversary, we’re traveling. For our 2nd anniversary we were in China, on a 60 hour train journey in ‘hard sleeper’ class, and we celebrated with one bottle of Becks (brewed in Quanzhou) and a tin of Lindt chocolates (made in Shanghai). Both turned out to be revolting imitations of the real thing, but after 10 months in Asia we were happy. But this time we are in the USA, home of ‘Freedom Fries’ and ‘Gourmet Hamburgers’, so things are bound to be better!

We started the day in Lake Tahoe, driving up the Emerald Bay on the lake. It was lovely, and the other 200 people standing at the viewpoint thought so too – and then we got back into the car and started driving west. (In Canada we were told that 95% of visitors to the Rockies don’t ever get more than 100 yards from their car. Well, we were in that mode this morning!)


We drove the Interstate, across the pass past Sacramento, towards San Francisco. After so many other amazing drives, this one seemed boring. We just drove past waterfalls, forests and mountain streams, and barely slowed down to admire the skyscrapers of Sacramento or the vineyards alongside the highway near Napper Valley. Mind you, we did stop for lunch at the Golden Arches (now, there’s one for the ‘wedding anniversaries from hell’ scrapbook). And we drove across the top of the bay near San Francisco, and drove down the peninsula towards the Golden Gate bridge.

And when we came round the corner and saw it for the first time, we were all excited. There was a strong breeze blowing in the sea mist, which covered about a third of the bridge, and made it seem as if we were standing on clouds. Charlotte and Emily had never seen anything like it, and were excited by the whole idea of fast-moving clouds in front of their eyes. And they were also cold, for the first time in ages.

We drove on, over the bridge, accompanied by half a dozen fire trucks (don’t ask me what that was all about – it looked like they were all out for a picnic, because they definitely have ‘working’ frowns on), and then dropped into the city along Highway 101. It took us about half an hour to choose a motel, after we’d looked at and negotiated with three different ones, and we’re paying $68 for a motel within a mile of the main sights (Fisherman’s Wharf etc). It never seems to take us long to find our accommodation, with the help of our handy motel-coupon book (pick them up at a California Visitors Centre – they’ve saved us a small fortune here) – we sometimes wonder how budget travellers must get on in the UK. Can you imagine doing the same in Oxford – driving around half a dozen hotels to find a good one at a good price? It would take half the day to just find half a dozen!

Anyway, I digress. Once settled into our room it was early evening, so we wandered down to the sea front at the marina while the sun sank (whoo, that’s chilly. It might be 90-degrees inland 10 miles, but its 68-degrees here on the coast). And then we went for our special anniversary meal. Okay, only kidding – but we did decide to spend more than usual. We ended up splurging $35 (coo - £22) on a divine meal of skewers of lamb, beef, prawns and scallops, served on a bed of salad and garlic mash – plus a carafe of wine. It was expensive by our standards, but not really compared to home prices. It was the best, and healthiest, meal we’ve eaten in the States. (If you come to SF and want a good value meal, then we’d recommend it – Asque – on the corner of Steiner and Chestnut). You can see from the photo that we drank all the wine!


We then went round the corner to Mel’s Diner for deserts and coffee. From the outside it looked like the classic 50’s style diner – jukeboxes on every table, and promises of ‘good home cooking’. But when we got inside it was a slightly different story – all the waitresses were oriental, rather than looking like Fonzie’s Mum – and the deserts were poor. But still, it made a great picture from the outside. And then it was back to bed (dragging two weary kids with us, who woke up the minute we got back to the motel, and played ‘airplanes’ while we tried to get them to sleep). And so ended our 12 wedding anniversary. Wonder where we’ll be for the 22nd? Will we be backpacking round the moon by then?

Monday, September 08, 2003
We love San Francisco
We’d already decided we liked San Francisco by yesterday evening – the smiles seemed broader here than other parts of California, and the city streets seemed a lot more relaxed and less ‘mean’ than LA. Even the cops don’t seem as if they’re going to bite your head off if you look at them A real contrast to LA, where the average cop tries to look as mean as possible, and caused us to give them a wide berth if they were on the street. When we passed a bunch of motorcycle cops having a coffee in downtown LA, it looked like a group of shaven Hells Angels, and their mean stares were chilling.

We got up late and walked down to Fisherman’s Wharf – the main tourist trap in town. Okay, it was full of tourists, and it had loads of tacky, tacky shops, but we enjoyed the walk around, and we saw the sea lions at the end of Pier 39, and the girls loved that, and the T-shirt shops. Then it was off to Macys in Union Square to find them new shoes. Since we’ve been travelling they both seem to have been growing fast, especially their feet. And that meant a trip on the cable cars (slow, noisy, but what a way to get around).


And after a successful shopping interlude, Sarah went off to get her hair coloured and cut (the first time since we’ve been traveling), while the girls and I did some more tourist stuff. Another cable car ride, an ice cream, walking up and down some steep streets – oh and the windy street that everybody knows. It turned out to be rush hour there, with lots of cars coming down, each one with a driver gripping the wheel hard and the passenger holding a camcorder. It turned out to be one of those things that’s probably better on a film or video than in real life (didn’t Sandra Bullock jump a bus down it in Speed?), but we’ve been there, seen that and got the photo.

So San Francisco is definitely a nice place as far as we’re concerned. We love its temperature (cool), it’s people (smiley) and it’s ambience (relaxed). We love the public transport – it’s not just full of the poor and the nutters (unlike LA). And after the rest of the US seeming so soulless, its got a character. We were planning to stay for 3 days, but we’ve just extended our hotel so that we can stay for 5. We’ve also bought the SF City Pass tickets, which for $36 gives us a 7-day bus & cable car pass, and free entry to the California Academy of Sciences, Steinhart Aquarium, the Legion of Honor (Rubens, Rembrandt, Seurat, Degas, Picasso and ‘The Thinker’ from Rodin), the Exploratorium (the Science Museum on steroids), a Bay cruise (under the bridge and around Alcatraz) and the SF Museum of Modern Art. Well, we can try and get our money’s worth, and I’m sure some of those will cover quite a few of the National Curriculum things Charlotte’s class will be doing this year (“Rembrandt – a genius or what? Discuss”).


What’s all this Starbucks stuff?
I keep mentioning popping into Starbucks for web updates and email. That’s because its where we can get online with our Tablet, which has wireless Ethernet built in. Instead of having to sit in a cyber-café, using somebody else’s PCs, we can sit in a Starbucks and do everything from the Tablet. We needed to buy a subscription to the t-mobile service, which cost $40 for the month, but then we have unlimited web access from any Starbucks. This is pretty reasonably priced compared to a cyber-café, which typically costs $10 an hour here in the States (almost ten times the cost of Canada’s cafés).

Once we walk into a Starbucks, we just open our web browser, and it asks for a username and password, and once that’s entered we’re off – we can then surf the web (for example, to update the text on this web site), upload pictures to the website (more on that later), and check our email. Basically we use Outlook for email, just like we would on our home PC, and so every email is loaded down onto our PC. We can then check it later if we want – we don’t have to sit in the café reading them. In fact, sometimes we just sit outside the Starbucks in the car and send/receive our email – it only takes 2 minutes, and we can then be on our way.

Compared to ten years ago, the difference is amazing. I remember rushing to get to Bombay Post Office to pick up our post restante mail, as we hadn’t been able to get any mail for 7 weeks, and then we’d rush down to the nearest Indian Coffee House to read what we’d received. And if our schedule changed, we’d sometimes miss our post completely (2 weeks late and it would be sent back, a day early and we’d miss it arriving). It meant that we were always 4 to 6 weeks behind on what was happening at home, no matter how big or small the news.

Now, the same feeling happens when we get to a Starbucks after a few days without email – like when we had 6 days without around Yosemite. We sat out in the car at the Starbucks in Jackson, and got really excited to see half a dozen emails from friends and family. But now, they’re only days old, or in some cases hours old, rather than weeks.

The other advantage of the Tablet is that we can plug the memory card from the camera straight into it – so if we take photo’s during the day, I can load them onto the Tablet in the evening, and then edit them for the web straight away. I don’t do anything fancy with most photo’s – simply shrink them in size to make the thumbnail and the bigger image that you get if you click on them (the originals are too huge to load onto the website and would take ages to download – they’re all around 1MB, with a 2000x1600 resolution – the big ones on the website are 800x600, and typically come in at 75k). They may take a minute or so to download with a modem, but contrast that to last time we were travelling – we had our photos with us for 2 years, and then brought all 2,000 back with us to develop and look at in one shot.

The technology so far is proving to be very robust and reliable – I don’t think I could recommend any of it highly enough – the Tablet PC for its robustness and sheer cleverness (I get stopped by people all the time asking what it is and where can they buy one), the Canon Ixus 400 Digital Camera (when you buy one, buy a spare battery and a big memory card, as you can then take loads of photo’s and delete the duff ones when you get back to your PC) and the Sony PC9E Camcorder (its so small and light, its easy to carry every day). The only disappointing thing about the Canon camera is that it already looks ancient – the special new durable metal CeraBrite finish the camera’s supposed to have isn’t worth toffee (in fact, toffee may be tougher) – but just because it doesn’t look new anymore doesn’t affect how it works. The only bit of technology I’m regretting is the CESAR CD Writer, made by Archos. I chose it because it’s battery powered, and doesn’t need a mains adapter (a pretty important thing when it all goes on my back in the rucksack). But its proving to be very unreliable – I probably waste 3 CD’s every time I try to create one. I always get there in the end (I need to write the photo’s to CD so that I can send them home) but it’s a frustrating process.

So that’s what this Starbucks stuff is all about – being in touch, being able to find out what’s going on with friends and family, and being able to keep this website up to date. But that all stops when we leave America next week – goodness knows what Fiji will offer, and when we get to Australia we’ve got to work out how we stay connected when we’re touring the country in our campervan (there’s no national network of wireless access points there, so we may have to resort to a mobile phone connection!). We’ll see when we get there.

Wednesday, September 10, 2003
We continue to love San Francisco – despite the weather
The weather has decided to take a turn for the worse. Instead of blue skies and sunshine, we’ve got a miserable sea mist hanging over the city, making everything seem grey and gloomy. So a great day to do indoor things. After visiting Starbucks to upload yesterday’s diary, and check our email, we took a combination of buses to the California Academy of Science and Steinhauser Aquarium. The Science Academy turned out to be more about nature than science, including a great tableaux of African animals in a landscape setting (of course, the animals are dead and stuffed – a process which Emily wanted to know the fine details of!), as well as a room full of skulls of different animals. Again the girls were fascinated (they’ve obviously got a morbid streak), and Emily took a great deal of interest in the human skulls at different ages. The simulated earthquake was another favourite – it seemed to be much more relevant here in San Francisco than when you do the same thing at the Science Museum, especially when you’re seeing film of the area the museum stands in, being wrecked by the 1986 earthquake. The other highlight was the aquarium, which we hadn’t been too fussed about, but turned out to be a real treat. The highlight was ‘the roundabout’, where you walked up a circular ramp into something like a huge lighthouse top, and tuna, stingray and lots of other fish were swimming frantically around the outside of the glass, in an amazing display. It captivated us all, and made the visit memorable.

Then, after a spot of lunch at a café, it was off to the Legion of Honor, an art gallery in a nice park setting on the Pacific Ocean. They had the Rodin ‘Thinker’ - but sadly it was inside a tent that we couldn’t get into because of some corporate event. So we at least went there, and stood outside the tent imagining what we missed! We also saw some paintings by all the majors, including the impressionists - must be the favourites of all of us, because we’re all willing to gaze at them, having rushed past the Constables and Vermeers of the gallery. And just so you can feel as if you were there, I took a photo of the nicest Monet, of Venice (1906)

Then we did an awful thing – we went back to the same restaurant for the third night in a row! How shocking is that – we’ve got the whole of San Francisco to choose from, and we end up in the same restaurant again and again. But it was described by one restaurant critic as “the place to go if you have a caviar taste and a Spam budget” – so its obviously right for some of us!

Thursday, September 11, 2003
Alcatraz – another great day in San Francisco
A week ago we’d booked our tickets for Alcatraz for this morning – we’d been warned that it gets booked out well in advance – by buying online we avoided a queue, and having to come back two days later. However, we didn’t get to choose the weather, and as we’d gone to bed last night there was a thick fog in the air, and it was raining. As we got up this morning there was still a light fog, but the sun was definitely up there shining above it. As the picture shows – it was hanging low in the bay – but the Golden Gate bridge rose through it


As we walked to the Fisherman’s Wharf, we got a great view of Alcatraz in the middle of the bay. The wind was strong, so the mist blew across the bay quickly, sometimes completely blocking the view to Alcatraz, and other times opening a completely clear view across.


As the boat took us over, we talked with the girls about how they might feel if they were going there as a prisoner, rather than just for a day trip – Charlotte got quite deep about it all, while Emily merely protested that she hadn’t been naughty, and then went on to test the boundaries of what she’d have to do to get incarcerated!



Once we were there we found it pretty impressive – a short film as introduction, and then into the jail house itself, with a guided audio tour in the form of an MP3 player hanging round our necks, with a commentary from ex-prisoners and prison-officers. It was very, very good – it really helped the prison to come alive, and the sound effects were so life-like, I ended taking of my headphones once or twice to see if the riot was on the tape or some tourists were getting out of hand.
Inside the building seems pretty small, whereas from the outside it seems huge. The cells were pretty tiny too, but Sarah and I reckoned we stayed in some similar hotel/hostel rooms last time travelled! But we only had to sleep in them for one or two nights – not twenty years.


In all we spent 3 ½ hours there, getting back to the dock around 2:30 – and went straight to look for some lunch. The rest of the afternoon was spent traveling downtown on a tram, a quick bit of shopping (essentials like underwear for the girls and a mini-tripod for the camera), and then hopping onto a cable car back up and down the steep streets to end up at the dock again.


We finished our day wandering the dockside at sunset, with a fantastic sunset behind the Golden Gate Bridge, and a perfectly clear evening. We got back to the hotel around 8pm, with the girls exhausted from all the walking they’d managed during the day. Their stamina is pretty impressive, especially in cities. In the countryside they complain incessantly about walking any distance, but we’ve found that in a city we can get them to walk a mile or two by saying that we’re “walking to the bus stop”. We’ll have to try that trick next time we’re in the wilds!

Friday, September 12, 2003
San Francisco – a continuing wow
Today we went to the Exploratorium – a bit like the Science Museum, but much more practical, hands-ony. We got entry free with our CityPass, otherwise we’d probably not have gone there. But we’re really glad we did – we spent 5 hours there, playing with all of the different activities, from the huge bubble machines, to the mechanical and electrical devices and looking at the nature section. It was a great educational experience for Charlotte, and really amused Emily, so we’ve counted it as a full ‘school day’! One of the highlights was getting Emily standing inside a giant bubble. Afterwards, for a mid-afternoon snack, we stopped off at a diner – the girls rounded off the sandwiches they’d already eaten with an ice-cream sundae.

Then it was off to Fisherman’s Wharf to catch the boat trip around the Bay (another thing included in our CityPass). We sailed around the bay for an hour just before sunset, and out under the Golden Gate Bridge. Because it was a bit windy (which seems to be the weather in SF consistently), we couldn’t hear the commentary at all until we got to Alcatraz – the only bit we already knew. But it was still good, watching the scenery pass by and watching the kite-boarders zooming and jumping around (Kiteboarding is for big kids- you strap a small surfboard to your feet and hold onto a HUGE kite, and let it drag you across the water – they were doing 20+mph on these things).


Farewell friends
When we arrived in San Francisco we’d bought the girls new shoes, because they’d both outgrown their current ones. Now came the difficult bit – throwing away the old ones. Emily threw an enormous flap, immediately putting them back on and claiming that they still fit her (despite the hobbling walk!), and refused to let them be taken out of the room. Charlotte was much more pragmatic – she just wanted the buckle as a souvenir! So we’re going to have to lose Emily’s another time when she’s not looking – as they're still vaguely decent perhaps we can give them away on the outer islands in Fiji.

Saturday, September 13, 2003
On another big drive.
We had one last look at San Francisco this morning, because we hadn’t really got any video of the cable cars. It was a mad dash to do all three cable cars, plus two trams and two buses. Even though we were rushing around, it was still a lovely, relaxed city. We’re definitely a bit sad to leave it. We finally drove out of the city at 2:30 – the first time in the car for 5 days, which has been a nice break for us all. However, we are heading down the coast road to LA and Disneyland, so we’ve got 500 miles ahead of us in the next day.


The drive down the Big Sur was spectacular – lots of wild coast lines, with beaches hidden in the bay, and waves hitting the rocks below us. The road twisted along the coastline, occasionally coming across huge drops on the outside curves. Although the Highway 1 coast road goes for hundreds of miles, the Big Sur section, which is the most spectacular, is 90 miles long, and took us 3 hours to drive. It was 5 o’clock by the time we started it, so we saw the sunset while we were driving down. We stopped for dinner at a gruesome diner (but when the next one is 50 miles, there’s no choice), and then settled in for more driving. We’d decided we’d get as far as we could before finding a motel, so that tomorrow’s drive isn’t too long. But as we got further south (and a bit closer to LA) motels started getting more expensive because of the weekend tourist traffic. By the time we eventually stopped (just short of Santa Barbara) it was midnight, and we were paying $80 for the room! In all, we’d driven 350 miles from San Francisco, a large section along the twisty coastal road. We were all exhausted – the girls had finally fallen asleep at 11pm, and I’d found the drive a bit shattering (In fact, so shattering that I didn't finish the sentence on the website in the first version of this! And this section was piled full of typos and spelling mistakes)

Tuesday, September 16, 2003
Cruising past Venice Beach
On our drive down the coast to Disneyland, we passed through Santa Barbara (wow – a really relaxed beach town with great shops – we couldn’t afford to stop!), and through Beverley Hills in LA (okay, it was a bit of a detour, but we hadn’t seen it before, and the girls were asleep). We did the full set – Hollywood Avenue, Wilshire Boulevard, and Rodeo Drive. Rodeo Drive is being worked on at the moment, so there’s no pavement and huge piles of mud outside all of the fancy shops – Chanel & Mud, Armani & Mud etc. We decided that was reason enough not to shop there – besides Louis Vuitton is soo much cheaper in Kho San Road in Bangkok!

We got to Venice Beach in the middle of the afternoon, and wandered along to see Muscle Beach, and various ‘actors’ performing. Perhaps the greatest stand was for one of the Governornatorial candidates (the election in California is next month, and 135 candidates are standing, including Arnold Schwarzenneger, Larry Flint, of Hustler fame, oh and some politicians), who is a porn star in her day job. Her give-away posters were incredibly popular! I thought the photo captured the mood – wedding photo’s on the Baywatch set.


After 14 hours in the car, out of 24, the girls enjoyed running around the beach, and getting themselves wet and sandy. Although the promenade was tacky (think about the worst of any English seaside resort and quadruple it), and crowded, the beach was nice, with a huge stretch of sand. It wasn’t crowded either, because the weather had been so cold in the morning.


The girls also managed to do some shopping at the beach too, claiming that they “absolutely must” have sunglasses for Fiji. As they were only $4 each (they’ll last a long time then…), we let them choose their own. As you can see, they’d obviously got into LA mode immediately, and each choose a pair of hip-chick ones. We’re quite used to people looking at the girls as we walk along, but once they’d put these on, and wandered down the promenade, it seemed like everybody was looking at them. Of course, they pretended not to notice, but they both managed a little more swagger in their step! What kind of children are we raising?!


Anyway, after leaving the beach at 5pm, we finally arrived at our motel next to Disneyland at 7pm. We’d booked it by phone a few days ago, and it turned out to be great – right next to the entrance to the park (closer than the Disney hotels by half a mile!) and at $49 a night, it’s a bargain. We decided that after the long drive we needed a treat, so we went for a slap-up meal in a ‘proper’ restaurant – just a main course, which left us all bursting at the seams (John Coxeter – if you’re reading this, it was on you – thank you!). And then to bed, to start recharging the batteries ready for FIVE WHOLE DAYS AT DISNEYLAND (scream, or smile, depending on what you think of that!).

Friday, September 19, 2003
Disneyland
We’ve been in Anaheim since Saturday night, and we’ve spent 5 days in the park. And now we’re all tired of it. Sarah got tired of it by about day 1 (well, morning 1!), but we’ve been going back every day, exploring the real Disneyland, and the ‘Disney California Adventure’ – more like an amusement park with a thin veneer of Disney. This afternoon, at about 3 o’clock, the girls all said they’d had enough Disney and could they go back to the hotel for a swim. Phew – I thought the moment would never come, especially as we’re flying to Fiji tonight, and only had 3 hours left for them to decide that enough was enough!


We’ve had a good time, and with our hotel right outside the main entrance (the Del Sol Inn), it’s been good to come out for lunch and a short break every day, or for a teatime snack before the parade.

Charlotte discovered yesterday the she liked roller coasters – we started on the kids one and worked her way up past the ToonTown one, through The Matterhorn (literally – a roller coaster set inside a mountain, with pitch black drops), and finally onto California Screamin’ – a horrendous construction of metal rails starting with a sudden acceleration upwards, some whacky turns and a loop the loop. Charlotte loved it so much that we ended up doing it half a dozen times with her.

Because it’s low season, the longest queue for the grown-up rides was 15 minutes (for Pirates of Carribean) while some of the rides that obviously have big summer queues (like the Roller Coasters and the Indiana Jones ride) had 5 minute or less queues. Some of the children’s rides had 15-20 minute queues, but nothing longer. Unfortunately, low season also means closed rides, so some of the big ones were closed for repairs and overhauls (eg Space Mountain, Haunted House, Splash Mountain etc). The Thunder Mountain Roller Coaster was also closed because somebody was killed on it last week (might also explain the absence of queues).

Overall we are exhausted – the days at Disney have been long ones with lots of walking involved – so we’re all looking forward to a break in Fiji.

 

 

The Fleming Family Travel Tales
The Fleming Family's tale of a global adventure. 4 people, 3 backpacks, 2 grown ups and 1 year.