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Wednesday, December 31, 2003
Rock Art
Sunday, December 28, 2003
A day trip into the Grampians
Friday, December 26, 2003
Boxing Day – time for a walk!
Anyway, back to today – we decided to walk around the lake by the caravan park, which didn't look huge, but by the time we were halfway around we knew it was bigger than it looked! Anyway, it was 10km round, so we had a healthy long walk (fortunately we'd left Charlotte and Emily at home with Gloria and Michael), and felt much better for it! Thursday, December 25, 2003
Swimming in a Winter Wonderland
With no stress, and little fuss, it seems as if there are some really positive side effects of a non-traditional Christmas. Wednesday, December 24, 2003
t'was the night before Christmas…
We left the coast today, and headed inland to the Grampian mountains. A month ago we'd booked a cabin on the shores of Lake Fyans for Christmas and New Year – we'd been warned that as soon as Boxing Day arrives it gets incredibly busy, and most people book 6 months ahead for the sites – so we thought we should book one place for the whole period around Christmas, rather than risk moving around and being without any accommodation at all! The Grampians are about two hours drive from the coast, across typical Australian farmland – dry, yellowing grazing land, dotted with corrugated iron shacks and corrugated-roofed houses. Once we'd settled in to the cabin, Michael, Gloria and Sarah went off to the nearest big town for the Christmas supermarket shop. This wasn't nearly as harrowing as a normal Christmas food shopping expedition, as we didn't have to buy turkeys or many of the other traditional Christmas Day delights – and because the Australians don't make a huge thing of Christmas Day either, the supermarket wasn't heaving with thousands of people desperately fighting over the last tub of brandy butter! Monday, December 22, 2003
Tower Hill Reserve
Saturday, December 20, 2003
The last Saturday before Christmas...
Like almost everybody else, we spent the last Saturday before Christmas doing the shopping! In Australia, most smaller shops close around lunchtime on Saturday, even in the cities, so we only had a short time to get our shopping done. We were only after a few small Christmas presents for the girls (aware of the size of our rucksacks, especially as we've got to get everything back into them when the hire car goes back on 5th January; and also the ominous presence of a green suitcase, which Gloria and Michael are carrying and have told us is full of Christmas presents for the girls). I also had to buy a new CD-ROM writer, as the Archos drive I've been using since leaving has finally given up (it was temperamental when I first bought it, and has been getting steadily worse as time goes on). We need it because it allows us to backup our pictures onto CD, and send them home, as well as copy photos and text for our website, whenever internet cafés won't allow me to connect up my own computer (which is quite often here in Australia). We're also hoping that the green suitcase contains one or two CDs to play, as we're now thoroughly sick of the same 10 CD's worth of music on the computer. We could do with something else to put on our MP3 player! Anyway, shopping successfully achieved, we then all went to the cinema to watch the new Peter Pan film (a pre-Christmas treat), and then went down to the harbour to play in the adventure playground and catch the sea breeze before bedtime. We're still amazed at how good the public parks are here in Australia – every town has a park that most places in England would be proud of, with a great play area, and picnic tables and BBQs to cook on. This evening the sun had come out, and all the clouds had cleared away, and every BBQ was in use by groups of families and friends enjoying the summer. Its at times like this that you can envy the Australians their outdoor lifestyle (especially after the flies have gone to bed...) Friday, December 19, 2003
Carols on the Green – Australian Style
When we arrived in Warnambool, we discovered that they had an outdoor carol service planned for the evening, so we thought we'd try and get in the Christmas spirit by going down to it. We all had images of the carol service in Deddington on Christmas Eve - wrapping up warm and standing in the village square, in the shadow of the village tree, singing carols accompanied by a barrel organ and Jim Flux's off-key singing through the loudspeaker! All along with mince pies and mulled wine. Sadly, Australia doesn't seem to do Christmas like that... The green was filled with families settled on picnic blankets, with candles and drinks – and quite a few Domino's Pizzas. The first half hour was taken up with the students at the local dance school, performing their routines to pop tunes (not quite Christmassy!), and then we had 15 minutes of magic from one of the local teachers (not a mention of Christmas there then), but then the Christmas lights were switched on (one neon Angel over the stage) and the compere stepped forward. He was obviously a local celebrity, because he talked for quite a bit about this and that (mainly about the ice cream stall and the glo-band stall either side of him), and then introduced the choir, who led into the first carol. Despite everybody having carol sheets, not a single person in the audience sang (except for Gloria, of course). Carol two was "Hark the Herald Angels Sing", and the local celebrity spent a while talking about how it didn't mean anything to Australians, as it was all about Kings and Royals, and they didn't go in for any of that stuff, so he tried to put it into an Australian context, by asking what the herald angels would sing for today – and deciding that obviously it would be Cathy Freeman winning in the Olympics. So there we go – a Carol concert in which the birth of the son of Christ is declared to be the same as Cathy Freeman running 400 metres! The carol was accompanied by the same deafening silence from the crowd, and by this time we were starting to realise that our image of 'Carols on the Green' weren't going to be fulfilled. When the next carol was replaced by a Country and Western song composed by the local celebrity, we decided that we'd go back to the cabin rather than suffer any longer! (It turned out that the "Carols from the Domain", on television the next night, was just as good – they had the Wiggles singing children's songs at 10pm, and then a huge Disney section, unrelated to Christmas, because Disney had sponsored the programme – they showed trailers for every Disney movie in the cinemas at Christmas, but still no mention of Christmas. The final icing on the cake was when we discovered that they sang the carols when we were watching the adverts, so when the adverts ended was the only time we caught the last few bars of a carol!) We had already decided that we couldn't really have a proper Christmas here in Australia, and it was confirmed by today's experiences!
The shipwreck coast
Finally, after seven days at Marengo Headlands, we're heading off up the coast. After feeling that my feet were growing roots, it was a relief to pack everything back in the car and set off. Although the weather continues to be a bit overcast, it is broken up by occasional spells where the sun breaks through the clouds – and when that happens you're quickly reminded of how fierce the sun is here, so close to the ozone hole. We've been away since July, and have got pretty used to the sun, and have developed tans which protect us from the worst of it, but even we still get caught. On Wednesday Sarah got sunburnt eyelids, when she sat out in the sun for an hour without her sunglasses on, and the result was painful, puffed up eyes for a day. Thursday, December 18, 2003
Water, water everywhere
When it rains, and we're confined indoors, the cabin can seem a bit small – especially if the children decide to play a noisy game. But when the rain stops, and we can go outside, its great to be able to get onto the beach, or go for a walk. Today, after some early morning rain, we headed up to Marriners Falls, a 2 mile walk through the rainforest. The track was pretty easy going, with four stream crossings across stepping stones, and it went deeper and deeper into the forest – eventually completely shaded by the huge ferns which cover all of the forest floors here. The silver-lining to the earlier rain was that the trickle over the waterfall had turned into a semi-torrent. The fall itself was surrounded by moss covered rocks, and fallen trees lay across the pool at the foot. It was such a perfect sight, it was a though it had been made as a film set. Wednesday, December 17, 2003
Victoria – 3 seasons every day
Melbourne has a reputation as the "changeable weather capital of Australia", and now we've been in the area for a couple of weeks, we know how true that is. Every day seems to dawn bright and with blue skies, then deteriorate towards either too high temperatures, or in the opposite direction to cold winds and rain. Yesterday it was 39 degrees and blue sky – just stepping outside sapped the energy away from you. And today its wet and around 17 degrees. The rain started before 7am, eased up slightly at 1 o'clock, and then came back with a vengeance later. Its quite amazing, considering that this is the Australian summer (their school summer holidays start tomorrow), and we hadn't really packed for such poor weather (we'd been planning to stay in summer temperatures all year! We've had to add a few more layers some days, and you sometimes wonder if we'd be warmer at home! Sunday, December 14, 2003
The Otway Fly
For 600 metres we walked amongst the tree tops, looking down on the forest floor waaaay below us. It was quite exhilarating, and unlike anything we'd ever done before – especially the cantilevered section, rocking and swaying as you step out onto a 30 metre walkway suspended over nothing and held up by two high tension wires. (If you saw "I'm a celebrity, get me out of here", the walkway is a bit like the metal bridges they walked across to their challenges). Saturday, December 13, 2003
The Otway forest
Friday, December 12, 2003
Cabin Fever
Once you're inside it's fitted out just like a house. There's a lounge/diner/kitchen, kitted out with all the normal appliances, and then two separate bedrooms and then a bathroom with shower etc. From the inside you wouldn't know you're in a pre-fab – apart from the paper thin walls, which mean that there's about as much privacy as you'd find in the middle of Brighton beach in the summer! Anybody turning over in bed risks waking everybody else up. There's one double bedroom (for Sarah's parents), and one with bunk beds (for us and the girls). The bedrooms aren't exactly the biggest we've seen – once you've squeezed two two-bed bunk beds into a room, there's enough floor space to put down our rucksacks, and that's it. So we have to take turns getting up in the morning, although the girls are normally up well before us or well after us. I did ask Gloria and Michael if they wanted to take turns on the bunk beds, but apparently they're quite comfortable in the double bed! The girls love them too – not only can they wander through to see Nana and Opa first thing in the morning, they also get to watch television for the first time in two months. And today's cabin has even got a DVD player (all we need now is a DVD to play....) Thursday, December 11, 2003
The Great Ocean Road
Tuesday, December 09, 2003
Mr Fraudster – part 2
Over the last five months of travel, I have mostly been myself, but I've begun to get used to having a few aliases. In Canada, when we were filming with the BBC, we'd asked Amanda from the BBC to confirm our accommodation bookings, so that we had hostel rooms in the same town as the crew. (Normally we wouldn't book rooms ahead, as we'd just turn up and see what we could get!). The side effect of this was that all our bookings were in the name of Egbujo. After the second time we realised, and began checking in as the Egbujo-but-Fleming-really family. Then in Australia, while travelling in the camper van, we'd been using the campsite discount card which came with the van – in the name of Mrs Gill Bird from Canada. Unfortunately the handwriting on the card was so bad, that we ended up being booked in as the Bird family, the Biro family and the Biko family! It also meant that where we used the card, we had to pay with cash, otherwise there would be the mystery of the Biko family ("Didn't speak like a south African did he?") using the Fleming family credit cards("Do you think we should call the police?"). At the last site we visited, the receptionist was very curious about our accents ("You don't sound Canadian..."), and why my first name was spent with two L's ("Normally Gil is spelt with one 'L' for men..."). But now the van's gone back, I'm my own man again – I've even got my own campsite discount card in my own name. I can go around the rest of the world as Ray Fleming Mmm, perhaps hiding my identity again would be a good idea... Monday, December 08, 2003
Who's the Birthday Girl?
Happy Birthday MummySunday, December 07, 2003
The Great Ocean Road
Saturday, December 06, 2003
En vacation, en famille
Friday, December 05, 2003
To the coast
We all left Melbourne behind us today, and headed to the coast near Geelong (30 miles south of Melbourne, sandwiched between the sea and the Philip Bay which stretches all the way from the city). We also left behind all traces of accommodation luxury, and checked into a family cabin at the Pelican Beach caravan park – basically a pre-fabricated hut plonked on a bit of grass overlooking the sea (well, it overlooks the sea if you stand on tiptoes). This will be the style of accommodation for the next month – one double bedroom for Gloria and Michael, and a room with 4 bunk beds for Sarah, the girls and me. The great news is that they also have an ensuite bathroom, so we no longer have to traipse across the campsite to the toilet and shower blocks. And all for around AU$130 a night (about £55) for everybody. At the moment it seems spacious, compared to the campervan, but I wonder if it will still seem the same in a month's time – us, the children and the in-laws in a space the size of a large garage? But the views compensate for everything, as most parks are by the sea – the picture above was taken at Barwon Heads, ten minutes drive from Geelong (unfortunately, the cabins that have this view were all booked up, so we had to be satisfied with visiting the beach for the afternoon, rather than gazing at it all day and evening). Thursday, December 04, 2003
Welcome home darling!
Let me explain the situation – I've arrived back in Melbourne a day early, having driven 600 miles in the last 36 hours, and flying back at midnight. Sarah and the girls have had a couple of days to spend time with her parents – they're in the 5-star Windsor, and Sarah's in a nice double room in the town-house part of the Nunnery hostel. Fortunately I'd been able to let Sarah know I'd be arriving earlier than planned, and she'd booked me in to the hostel. But not into the same room as the rest of them, or even in the same building. Oh no. Sarah had booked me a dormitory bed next door. So I'm in what I described two days ago as 'Smelly-dormitory-ville', while Sarah is in the 'Boutique-hotel' part, with the girls. The chap on reception apologised, but explained that he'd "only done what your wife asked me to". Let me share with you the contrast: Sarah is in the town house, with a modern and stylish double bedroom, with a private lounge downstairs, complete with leather sofas, 8 seater dining table, and a shady courtyard. But this was all that Sarah could arrange at short notice, so I had to put up with it! And then I discovered that Sarah had arranged it for the next night too, rather than us all moving into a bigger room together (apparently, it would be a bit of hassle packing everything up just for one night). I think I may be getting a message! Still, we had a good day in Melbourne, with Sarah, her Mum and the girls going shopping for some new clothes for the girls (after 5 months on the road, the white clothes aren't quite so white any more!), and Sarah's Dad and I visiting a couple of museums, followed by a swift half in the hotel bar – which turned into a merry three hours chatting to the locals about all things Australian. We'd noticed that the Australians are fond of their beer, but we hadn't expected to spend the afternoon drinking with a police inspector, a rugby umpire and a stockbroker, on a normal work day! Still, it helped to make me less sensitive to my dormitory surroundings overnight! Wednesday, December 03, 2003
The Van
After such a manic trip I decided to treat myself to a flight back to Melbourne, so that I had to spend just an hour and a half in the air, rather than 12 hours on a coach overnight (splurged on the £45 flight, over the £24 coach!). That means that instead of getting back to Sydney on Friday as expected, I'll get there late tonight (Wednesday). The journey home was uneventful, apart from the airport being closed for an hour because of huge electrical storms, and I finally got back to the hostel in Melbourne at midnight – more about what happened then tomorrow! Tuesday, December 02, 2003
Picking up the parents, and dropping off the hired van
By 6:30 this morning, we’d all roused ourselves from bed, got dressed, packed up the camper van and driven out the Melbourne Airport to meet Sarah’s parents as they arrived from the UK. You know how it is – you step off a long flight, and walk blearily through the terminal. But not for the Hirsts, as they arrived wide eyed and smiley after 27 hours in flight! How is this possible I hear you ask? Easy, you fly Business Class and enjoy your flight fast asleep in a seat which lies down into a 6” long totally flat bed. Hearing stories about Business Class luxury really made us look forward to our next Cattle Class flight – NOT. Anyway, we all piled into the campervan, and dropped them off at their five-star hotel, and then went to the hostel which Sarah’s going to stay in while I’m dropping off the camper van. This is going to take me 3 days – because we’re in Melbourne, and the hire company’s office is in Sydney – 600 miles away. So while Sarah, the girls and her Mum and Dad enjoy time together in Melbourne, I’m going to be enjoying the equivalent of driving from Lands End to John O’Groats – and then coming back. Whoopee! And off I go, driving the last few hundred miles in the camper van, realising who’d got the best deal. There’s something about being a Hirst (or nee Hirst) that means that luxury just falls into your lap (when your husband’s not looking!) PAH! So I drove 400 miles before sunset, in the worst rain storms they’d had for three years, and slept in the Yass Council Caravan Park for £3 while rain hammered on the roof all night. In a freezing van. Double PAH!! (How many of you are smiling reading this?). But at least I got out of Melbourne before this happened (about 2 hours behind me) "Boats were used to rescue several motorists from the roofs of cars on the Eastern Freeway, while one man trapped in his flooded 4WD was saved by quick-thinking emergency service volunteers." Monday, December 01, 2003
"Don't I know you from somewhere?"
Read back through our travel diaries
We've heard the line a few times in the last week - once when we re-met somebody we'd originally met in Fiji; then yesterday when we met a family that are spending 6 months going around the world, who saw us on TV the night before they left the UK (apparently we gave them a boost of confidence, as they were a bit nervous on the eve of their trip - something along the lines of "If those idiots can do it...".) But the strangest coincidence was a week ago, when we met a lady who asked "Excuse me, do you live in England?", which then went to "Do you live near Oxford?", which then became "In Deddington?". And then she described the inside of our house to us! It turned out that she was an Australian nurse, who had been working in England, and had been a rural specialist covering north Oxfordshire - she'd actually visited us three years ago at home to try and help with Charlotte's exczma. How weird is that? As Mickey Mouse says "It's a small world after all!"
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